Mount Elbrus East–South Traverse

Mount Elbrus · overview

About Elbrus Traverse from East to South

This demanding 11-day expedition follows the Irik Chat Gorge, Achkeryakol lava flow, and Elbrus’s side crater. Eight days of full autonomy lead to the summit camp and the final descent by snowcat and cable car.

Irik Chat Gorge and Paton Peak

Roped glacier crossing and camp autonomy

Acclimatization at the side crater

Eastern and western summit attempt

Mount Elbrus · itinerary

Full itinerary · Elbrus Traverse from East to South

The itinerary follows the source-based Elbrus program, presented in the TAF Travel format for future reference.

Day 1

Arrival

Meet at Mineralnye Vody Airport, or arrive through Tbilisi the day before. Transfer to the local office, meet your guide, check personal equipment, and stay at a 3-star hotel in twin rooms.

Day 2

Camp 1 in the Irik Chat Valley

Drive to the village of Elbrus and begin the walk through the Irik Chat Valley. Stop at a natural Narzan spring and camp in a pine forest beside a river and waterfall.

Day 3

Higher in Irik Chat Valley

Practice walking and breathing techniques as the forest gives way to alpine meadows. Cross the steep valley and camp on the grass at about 2,750 metres.

Day 4

Paton Peak

Climb Paton Peak at 3,930 metres for acclimatization and panoramic views of Elbrus, the Achkeryakol lava flow, and the surrounding valleys. Cross the mountain river by fixed steel cables and lunch beside a mountain lake.

Day 5

Irik Chat Pass

Ascend through rocky terrain along the glacier tongue to Irik Chat Pass at 3,667 metres. Camp with views of the valley, Djikaochenkez ice plateau, Kalitsky Peak, and Mount Elbrus, then practice rope-team skills.

Day 6

Glacier crossing

Cross the snow-and-ice plateau roped together because of hidden crevasses. Continue beside the Achkeryakol lava flow to Camp 3 at about 4,000 metres, and train in crampon movement and self-arrest.

Day 7

Acclimatization to 5,000 m

Climb toward the edge of Elbrus’s side crater with only essentials in your pack. The route alternates between rock and snow and gains about 1,000 metres.

Day 8

Rest day

Review the mountaineering techniques and prepare for the summit push. If the weather window is unfavorable, the team may use this day for the attempt instead.

Day 9

Summit day

Start around 22:00 for the summit attempt. After the eastern summit, descend to the saddle and continue to the western summit only if time, weather, and strength allow. Descend by the south slope, snowcat, and cable car, then celebrate at the hotel.

Day 10

Reserve day

Use this extra day for another summit attempt if needed. If all summit windows close, descend along the ascent route and return to town by evening.

Day 11

End of the program

Have breakfast and transfer individually to Mineralnye Vody Airport or Tbilisi. The Tbilisi transfer is not included in the tour price.

Mount Elbrus · tour inclusions

What is included · Elbrus Traverse from East to South

Visa invitation and flight-arrangement assistance
Airport pickup and return transfer from Mineralnye Vody
Mountain guiding with a maximum of 3 climbers per guide
Program transfers, snowcat, and cable-car descent
Hotel nights, tents, mats, and group equipment
Full board on the route and cook service
Porters and horses for food and group equipment
Emergency oxygen, national park registration, and rescue service
Elbrus ascent certificate and official climb badge

Not included

Flights to Mineralnye Vody or Tbilisi
Lunches and dinners in towns and villages
Transfers from Tbilisi or Kutaisi unless arranged
Personal gear and clothing
Mandatory mountaineering insurance

Route-specific equipment

Pack for this itinerary, not a generic mountain.

The Elbrus programs are currently unavailable. This future-planning checklist must not be used to make travel arrangements until TAF Travel reopens and reconfirms the route. This checklist follows the selected route, season, accommodation, and published inclusions. Read the four categories separately: bring, consider, provided, and confirm or rent.

Essential personal equipment

Passport and a copy stored separately
Travel insurance that covers the route, rescue and evacuation where relevant
Personal medication and any prescription details
Comfortable daypack for water, layers and personal essentials
Water bottles or hydration system sized for the day
Headlamp with spare batteries
Sun hat, high-SPF sunscreen and lip protection
Glacier glasses or ski goggles with reliable UV protection
Waterproof jacket and overtrousers
Layered clothing with a warm mid-layer and insulated jacket
Warm hat, neck protection and gloves with a spare pair
Mountaineering boots compatible with the confirmed crampons
Crampons only when the guide confirms snow or ice requires them
Ice axe when required by the confirmed snow and ice route
Mountaineering helmet when required by the guide
Climbing harness for confirmed glacier or rope travel
Spare walking socks and a dry base layer

Recommended or optional

Cold-rated sleeping bag for high camps; confirm the comfort rating with the team
Insulated sleeping mat when the route does not include a mat
Gaiters for snow, wet grass and loose ground
Thermos for early starts and cold camps
Small summit pack with water, layers, food and essential safety items
Dry bags or waterproof protection for clothing and electronics
Personal energy snacks for long walking or summit days

TAF Travel provides or arranges

Group equipment, safety registration and emergency oxygen on the future route package
Accommodation, mountain transport and route logistics only if the program reopens and reconfirms them
Rescue and oxygen services are future planning information, not currently active services

Rent or confirm with the team

Personal mountaineering equipment not included in the standard Elbrus program; confirm or rent it for the route

The list is based on the published itinerary and included services. Weather, snow, access, and the guide’s final equipment check take precedence.

Not verified in the published program — ask TAF Travel before buying or packing it.

Mount Elbrus availability

Current availability for Elbrus Traverse from East to South

Departure dates and reservation prompts have been removed while this operating pause is in effect.

Currently unavailable

TAF Travel is currently unable to operate Mount Elbrus tours because of the current political situation in Russia and related cross-border travel conditions in the Caucasus. Departure dates have been removed, and we are not accepting reservations for these programs at this time.

Operational notice

Elbrus Traverse from East to South